Weapons of choice: 2h pencils, magic rub erasers, Koh-i-Noor Rapidograph 0.25 & 0.35, black ballpoint pens, Sakura Micron, Faber-Fastell Pitt pens; Strathmore bristol smooth 9"x12", regular computer paper, DELETER manuscript paper; DELETER brand and IC Screen screentones; several brands of markers and blenders including Prismacolor, Tombow, Copic and Neopiko
Pros and Cons:
-2H pencil: I draw with a lot of pressure and if I use B, Ill smudge all about!
-magic rub erasers: they're soft enough so that when you're erasing a big giant page, your arm doesn't get tired. Only downside is the eraser dust.
-Koh-I-Noor Rapidograph: I love this pen because I always want a fine line and the ink is really dark. The bad thing about it is, it bleeds on some paper and sometimes the tip gets clogged so you have to wipe the tip a lot.
-ballpoint pens: I just like them because they're smooth. and they create a certain atmosphere. The bad -- you have to get used to inking with them.
-Faber Castell Pitt pens: SUPER DARK PENS!! They are LOVE! the bad -- they need more sizes
-Strathmore bristol smooth: I can't even tell you how much I love this paper. The bad-- expensive
-computer paper: if you've got no money... you don't need the expensive paper. The badcant use markers; certain pens on it or it'll bleed.
-DELETER manuscript paper: Super smooth! Theyre great for inking and markering. The bad-- expensive and hard to find.
-ALL SCREENTONES: Awesome shading effects. The bad -- hard to find, expensive, and takes awhile to learn to use them (IC Screen's glue is more sticky than DELETER)
-COPIC & Neopiko markers: LOOOVE them! COPICs are refillable/Neopiko in MY opinion, looks more watercolor-like. I LOVE the brush tips because you can blend them easily and create watercolor effects. The bad -- expensive, sometimes hard to find. And the smell
-Prismacolor markers: cheaper than above markers. The bad -- UGH! the SMELL!!!!! I have to open a window when I use these! Has no brushtip
For sketching I use Rotring tikky II 0.5 with Staedtler's blue graphite. The good of it is that I can erase the blue lines in Photoshop and it makes a clear drawing. The bad is that the blue graphites are expensive (2 dollars per box of 12 blue graphite), and also, somewhat fragile, so you have to control the pressure or you can brake them while drawing.
For inking I use Staedtler pigment liner. They cost [in Chile] between 2-3 dollars per pen and they come in sizes between 0.05 - 0.8. I like that I can do a fast inking and its resistant to water, so they're perfect for inking in watercolor works. But the bad part is that they're very fragile (especially the ones between 0.05-0.5) so heavy pressure can brake it. And also, when they run out, you have to buy one new.
And also, I use Winsor & Newton drawing ink, in "black indian" and "white" colors with a nib pen. I like that it does a good ink job, but you need a lot of patience and watch the amount of the ink you use on the nib pen, because if you use a lot of ink on the nib, it can stain on your work. Each ink bottle cost between 2-3 dollars [in Chile] and they really worth it.
And for paper I use any sketchbook, usually with bond paper that is good to work with ink and graphite, but you need a lot of work with watercolor. Each sketchbook cost 3 dollars, and it depends of the brand, the bond paper can be good or bad to work with. That's why I use a lot of the art store brands.
Pencils - Very hard leads at very random times for very random sketches and pencil works, but never anything that I color, usually. 6H - 4H. I think my lead-holder is 8H (if that's possible). For things I intend to color, I use a plain old mechanical pencil because I very rarely have a sharpener handy.
Pens - For black inking, I've used Microns, Staetler Liners, and more recently, Rapidographs. Of the three, I think the Staetler liners are the best. Rapidographs are awesome, but if you're not drawing with them 24 hours a day, they get all clogged up. Microns always die too quickly and smear when I try to color things before the ink dries. :E Staetlers dry pretty much the instant they hit the paper, so they rock. Sometimes I'll do a pen sketch or two in two different colored gel pens like I did when I was 16. I love collecting pens. Back in the day, I was that chick with 80 pens in her backpack. I am also very very fond of Deleter Tachikawa pens (they have old dip-pen nibs), but seeing as I've been to no cons in the past 5 years that HAVE them anymore, I haven't been able to work with them in a while. I also love me some good old ball point pens.
Markers - I still use Crayolas from time to time when I have the help of my handy-dandy <a href=www.dickblick.com/zz051/33/>water brush. Generally, I go with Prismacolors when I don't have Triacolors or Copics. I've dabbled a tad with Chartpack Ad markers, but they are atomic BOMBS when it comes to fumes, and all-nigh uncontrollable unless you want a wash of some sort in the background. Another one I'm all about is the black licorice marker in the <a href=www.dickblick.com/zz212/15/>Mr. Sketch scented markers pack. It dissolves into CMYK. I shit you not. That's how I did this and this with just one marker.
Colored Pencils - Prismacolors, just like everyone else. How boooring.
Paper - Bristol for marker stuff, copy paper and LINED PAPER for a lot of other things, but I also like to work with different colored paper, too. :V
I usually sketch with a plain mechanical pencil (Quicker-Clickers FTW) with .5 lead, and do all my erasing with kneaded erasers - I have one that's new-ish and nice, and then a horror of an old kneaded eraser that's practically black from use, which is occasionally useful because it'll hold a thin shape for doing fine/tiny line adjustments better than the softer one, and also if I smush it down hard on the paper and leave it for a minute it'll leave an awesome grungy kind of texture. Paper is just a Strathmore sketchbook - not great paper and tends to be a bit textures, no good for watercolors but okay for inking and marker work. I also got a pad of Strathmore watercolor paper to play, it's worked out well for the one thing I've used it for but - uh - don't use markers on it.
Inkswise, I have a set of Sakura microns. I usually use .005 and .01 for basic thin lines, then use the .03 or .08 for thickening parts out. I also have a Staedtler brush pen and find it godly for doing black hair or just playing around for ink-sketches. Sometimes I ink with Bic pens too, they're also great for shading hair and work well for things I don't plan to put wet media on. They're also good for ink-sketching, which I'd rather not waste micron ink on.
For coloring I've used colored pencils (I have a set of Prismacolors with hard leads, and a few random colors I picked up in soft lead), watercolor pencils + water (also Prismacolor), and - uh - Prismacolor markers. I - I'm not a brand whore, that's just how it worked out. D: The soft-leaded pencils are great for smooth shading and blending, but even the hard-leaded ones will work for that, it's just a little more difficult to get a smooth gradient. Watercolor pencils are fun, but really require watercolor paper to use and the colors tend to end up lighter than one imagines after adding the water, so it's good to put it on a good bit thicker and darker than you want the final product. (As a side note, this set of watercolor pencils is pretty good for doll face-ups too, since as far as I know they're not oil-based. They don't make for very smooth blushing, but are great for eyebrows, lashes, and lip-lines.) The markers tend to bleed, but I've had pretty good results with them - but then, I don't use them for much that's very ambitious. n.n;;
And why not? azarath
Materials: I tend to use Strathmore smooth bristol for just about everything, especially if I'm going to ink and marker a piece. I use Staedtler fine liners or Sakura Micron brand pens - anything waterproof. I use 2H pencils of any brand, since they're light enough to erase before inking. As for markers I use Copic and Prismacolor.
Pros and cons: Bristol board is really smooth! The marker lays down perfectly on it. But, it gets costly, since I use 11x14 and it costs about $10 USA per pack. I don't recommend vellum bristol board; the texture is killer on your marker tips. Cardstock and inkjet computer paper also works well, and lead to really rich colors. But you have to learn how to control your markers to make sure you don't get any bleed. Staedtler pens are a bit more expensive than Sakura brand, and seem to hold up a little longer. But, the points are made of plastic and are fragile. For someone like me who presses too hard, snapping points are common.
Prismacolors are popular and cheaper ($2.50-$3.50 USD per marker). They are very rich and dark a lot of the time. Sometimes I get mislead by the color on the marker's case. They have a great broad point and they FINALLY started manufacturing new fine points. Previously they had plastic points like on Microns, but now they make them with tiny brush tips.
Copics are hard to find, and expensive, but are worth every penny. They come in several varieties and the colors are very vibrant. I use Sketch, which has a wedge tip, and a wonderful brush tip, great for sweeping, watecolor-like brush marks. The nibs are replaceable and the ink is refilable. One marker will cost you about $6 alone, but a refill (which will fill one marker many many times) is about $7 each. The only thing I don't like is out of the 250+ Copics I have, very few make good flesh tones, and I have to rely on my Prismacolors for that.
Some traditional anime works from my favorites gallery
Traditional Media tutorials
Want to buy some traditional materials?
Dick Blick www.dickblick.com
Pearl Art www.pearlpaint.com/
Discount Art Supplies www.discountart.com/
Do you use traditional media? I want to hear from you! Leave a comment below about what you use, what you like/dislike about the materials, and some links to your traditional works.
Future installments coming soon!: traditional screentoning and watercolors!